A custom-made suit will always fit better than anything off the rack. The same applies to your facial hair: You look better when your whiskers are groomed to fit your face shape. But, like a well-made ready-to-wear suit that looks pretty decent on most men, is there one facial hairstyle that brings out the best in almost every guy who wears it? To find out, we asked barbers across the country. Perhaps proving that there isn’t one universally flattering facial hair style, their responses were as diverse as their hometowns.

NORTHEAST: The Groomed Five O’clock Shadow
“Each man has his own style, and facial hair is a way to express that. Men grow facial hair differently too — some is coarser than others, some is finer. Some faces are more pronounced than others, creating shadows and spots that may not look great with a beard. But if I had to choose, I’d say the groomed five o’clock shadow is the safest bet. The style is professional enough for work. Plus, you can have a clean-shaven face in the morning and a shadow by night, creating a different look. As for a beard, goatee or mustache, you might not have enough facial hair growth or the right dimensions to pull it off.”

– Manuel Vazquez of American Shave Classic Barber in Union, N.J.

MIDWEST: The Full Beard
“The one style that works for most men is a full beard, whether it be scruff or the ‘I just got done hiking the Alps’ look. It looks classy when your beard is groomed, rugged when unkempt. It can really make a man look distinguished and it can sometimes age a baby face. Guys that have patchy beards should keep them short and tidy to give a fuller appearance.”

– Shawna Carter of State Street Barbers in Chicago, Ill.

WEST: The Style That Squares
“It’s always best to choose a beard style that best fits your face shape. A square face shape is the most ideal and desired shape. For men with square faces, the choices are endless. For those who don’t have a square face, the goal is to choose a beard style that helps to square the face so it gives the illusion that they do. This will be different for every face shape.”

– Craig the Barber of Gornik & Drucker barbershop in Beverly Hills, Calif.

SOUTHWEST: A Mustache
“After surveying our team of barbers, the vote came back unanimously for the mustache. We all agreed that the mustache (well-groomed, of course) represents a sense of style, confidence, security, strength and distinction. Just consider Clark Gable, Billy Dee Williams, Tom Selleck, Salvador Dali, Burt Reynolds, Albert Einstein and Charlie Chaplin.”

– Christopher Dickerson, president of Christopher’s Vintage Shave in Sugar Land, Texas

… Or a Goatee
“A well-trimmed, well-managed goatee looks good on every man — as long as you choose a goatee style that’s a good fit for your face. Some goatees may be fuller, thicker or longer than others, but the key is how it’s kept up. I find that most men take better care of a goatee than a full beard or just a mustache. You can’t grow it and ignore it.”

– Adrian Armendariz of V’s Barbershop in Houston, Texas

SOUTHEAST: No One Style Works for All
“There’s not one facial hairstyle that looks good on every man, because every man’s facial hair differs. Some hair is coarse and stiff, some is curly, some grows in spotty.

The style that’s the most flattering on an individual is the one that’s contoured to the man’s face; is neat and linear; and compliments the natural flow of the man’s cheekbone, jawline or lip structure.”

– James B. Kynes Jr., Kings of Atlanta Grooming Lounge & Spa in Atlanta, Ga.

Elizabeth Narins is the group editor of Men’s Life Today and Style and Tech for Men at Studio One Networks. The former YourTango.com Love Buzz blogger has written about relationships for Men’s Health magazine. Follow her @Ejnarins.

Image credit: Land of Nod Studios

Father’s Day is almost upon us, but it will not be complete until we’ve put together the annual Father’s Day Gift Guide from THE FATHER LIFE.  Of course, many of the recommendations from the past still apply, so you can always reference the 2009 and 2010 gift guides if you need more suggestions!

Our first recommendation is courtesy our Director of Development, Adam Cohen, who suggested a brilliant idea: a subscription to a Bacon of the Month club!  This is a great option for a last-minute Father’s Day gift.  There are several places that supply a Bacon of the Month Club, but we’re picking Bacon Freak (http://baconfreak.com) because of the many options they give you.  No pepper?  Nitrate free? Yeah, they’ve got that.  Bacon + coffee, bacon + pancakes, and more.  Prices start at $47.95/month and go lower if you purchase a multi-month subscription up front.

Howard Ludwig suggests something near and dear to my heart: a gift from Crutchfield.  He says:

“For Father’s Day, I’ve always enjoyed car audio gifts from Crutchfield.com. New speakers and stereo receivers for the car are always a good gift in my book. These little upgrades come in all price ranges too. You can upgrade speakers for as little as $60 or go for a high-end, touch-screen stereo upgrade for $1,000.

“Perhaps the best thing about gifts from Crutchfield is that every add-on is custom for your car. Basically, you tell them the make and model of your vehicle. Then, the folks at Crutchfield access the specific type of speakers, stereo and what other add-ons that fit and sound best in your ride.

“These items are all shipped with detailed, step-by-step instructions for installation that’s custom for your car.

“For example, I received new 5.25-inch speakers for my Chrysler minivan for Christmas. I opened the speakers and followed the instillation instructions. It seemed like a big job. I had to remove the dash, take out the old speakers and install the new ones. However, the instructions were so good, I had the whole job done in 25 minutes. The instructions even told me where the clips holding my dash on were located. This let me know where to apply pressure so the dash would pop free.

“In short, Dad’s (heart) car audio gifts from Crutchfield.”

TFL founder Ben Murphy digs the hand-drawn and hand-screened t-shirts from Rockstar Revolution (http://rockstarrevolution.com), all featuring original designs.  If you’re picking up the “Daddy of all Daddies” design, you can take 20% of the regular price of $25.00 (which is a good deal anyway) by using the promo code DADDY.  That’s right, The Father Life can help you save money, too!

My own recommendation: a remote control helicopter.  That’s right, a remote control helicopter.  When I was a kid, you couldn’t find anything like this unless you were buying a high-end piece of equipment (and dropping many hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars).  But the technology has come a long way in the past few years, and you can now pick up a durable, easy to use helicopter for as little as $25.00.  Some of them, like the one above, can even charge on a USB cable.  Make sure you get one that uses gyroscopes to keep it balanced.  You can find these at a number of places on the net, but the prices at http://xenonproject.com are hard to beat.

Another idea is to get your father the latest 4g phones on the market if he is a technology enthusiast.

Of course, if you’re a strict traditionalist, you can still get dad a tie.  I actually like getting (and wearing!) new ties, and I’ve found great selection available over at http://ties.com.

To read what average men’s magazines say about it, you’d think buying a suit is like purchasing a car, warranting copious research, multiple store visits, the accompaniment of an experienced friend. And it can be like that — if you want to spend thousands of dollars and look like a GQ photo shoot. But for most guys, it’s a much simpler proposition.

That said, there are a few essential pieces of know-how every first-time suit-buyer should have. To break it down for us, we spoke to David Alperin, a Brooklyn-based designer and owner of specialty men’s retailer Goose Barnacle, winner of the Best Menswear Award in New York Magazine’s 2011 Best of New York issue.

1. Pick Your Price
“I tell young people not to go for the cheapest suit,” says Alperin. “It’s not going to last, and in the long run you’ll get more out of something a little higher quality.” Alperin advises shopping at Club Monaco, J. Crew or Banana Republic, where you can find decent off-the-rack suits for $300 to $400 that won’t require too much tailoring.

2. Pick Your Color
“Everyone’s first suit should be a solid navy blue.” And after navy, Alperin suggests, gray. And then navy pinstripe and then gray pinstripe … and then you can start to experiment. Why all the navy and gray? Because they go with everything. And why navy first? Because it’s perceived to be the most professional. We don’t know why — some things just are.

3. Pick Your Style
If you’re young, says Alperin, no pleats. “Pleats were designed for a heavier-set person, and they make you look a little frumpy.” Flat-front pants give a slimmer, cleaner look — and who doesn’t want that? Cuffs are a personal decision, he adds, but “the rule of thumb is: if no pleats, no cuffs.”

As for jackets, either two-button or three-button is fine, but Alperin suggests sticking with the two-button option for your first suit — mainly because there are more of them out there. “In terms of finding suits at everyday stores that are mid- to good quality, usually it’s going to have two buttons.”

4. Pick Your Weight
As with color, until you have a closet full of suits and can pick and choose at your whim, you want something that’s going to be wearable in as many situations — and seasons — as possible. That, according to Alperin, would be a mid-weight 100-percent wool or wool blend.

5. Find Your Fit
“The shoulder and jacket length should be as close to perfect as possible,” says Alperin. “Anything else can be fixed.” The shoulders should end where your shoulders end; if they’re hanging off the end, even a smidge, put the suit back on the rack and find another.

Next, check the length. “You should be able to cup your hand underneath the bottom of the jacket.” If you brought dad along, and he’s telling you to go to the tips of your fingers, ignore him. That was the rule in his day; the new rule, according to Alperin, is a more modern look. “It makes everyone look taller if your jacket is a little shorter.”

Now you can start to relax, because the tailor will handle the rest. If your pants are flat front, make sure they fit in the waist (that’s your waist, not your hips) and they’ll have a nice straight fit down to the break on your shoe. Have the tailor hem your pants so they bend right as they hit the shoe and don’t bunch up. The sleeves should be tailored so that your shirt cuffs show a quarter of an inch. If you bought the right shoulders and jacket length, says Alperin, that’s all the tailoring you’ll need to do.

6. Complete the Outfit
“A mistake a lot of men make is purchasing a suit without the rest of the outfit,” says Alperin. “Without the tie, the socks, the shoes, it’s nothing.” You’ll need a minimum of two shirts: one white, one light blue. If you find a white shirt you like, Alperin suggests buying a few of them. “Your suit will outlive all of your shirts.”

There’s only one rule for socks: they must be darker than your suit. If your suit is a very dark navy, you can even wear black socks. Ties, of course, can run the gamut, but if you’re not ready to experiment, just go solid. “A solid burgundy tie, a dark green tie, navy, gray … they all look good with a navy suit on either a white or light blue shirt.”

Finally, says Alperin, invest in a good pair of black shoes — a typical men’s dress shoe like a Cole Haan lace-up — and a black belt to match. Most important of all: Keep your shoes polished. “It makes the whole outfit, which a lot of men don’t realize.”

Laura Silverman is the managing editor of Men’s Life Today

Well, it would have been.

It’s my fault, really. I should have known that with a girly name like “Cheesecake Factory” the place wouldn’t be worth a damn. But I was feeling all magnanimous and happy to be away from my craphole of work for a week. So I caved in.

Man, the prices in the over-decorated restaurant were high. But seeing as how the decor was right out of an old folks home or a 70s gangster movie, I kind of expected that. Being a bit of a rebel and a cheeseburger connoisseur, I opted for a burger, instead of some fru-fru platter of poached pomegranates smothered in sissy sauce.

Our waitress was fantastic. Despite the fact she looked like she was barely out high school, the girl was an old pro at the serving game. Plenty of smiles, graciousness, neat and clean and superb service.

And when the food came I was shocked to see the bathtub-sized platter of food my wife got. Same for my oldest daughter, who got a ginormous platter of spaghetti. It was clear both the girls would be taking food home. My mouth started to water at the idea of a Fred Flintstone-sized bronto burger. Instead, I got a happy meal. Without the toy.

I shit you not, I have gotten burgers from Dairy Queen the same size. Maybe bigger. Americana Burger? More like, tiniest-assed country in Central America burger. A Texan would have bitch slapped somebody if they were served something that small. My God, it was like White Castle catering a fancy dinner. But on a giant sized plate. You could have fit three or four of those burgers on there. Did the waitress drop some of my food on the way from the kitchen? Do I really need a foot-long plate for a single quarter-pounder? I sure as hell didn’t need it for the bouquet of french fries served in a metal cup on the side. Wrapped in paper and planted in the cup to make it look like I got more than I could count on both hands- but which I really could.

You know, I can understand a restaurant that hikes it’s prices sky high and serves diet-sized portions. It’s for a healthy profit margin. But why in the hell do you serve a bucket of spaghetti and a kiddie burger in the same place? I damn well know that I didn’t order off the kid’s menu.

My wife sat there and gorged herself on a major portion of the Atlantic’s shrimp population, pushing her plate away and complaining she was stuffed. Same for my oldest daughter- lamenting that she just couldn’t eat any more of that wonderful spaghetti. Me and my cheeseburger crumbs were not amused. My littlest made it worse by not eating her grilled cheese. It was “yucky.” So we got her a second dinner of kids’ chicken strips. Which I’ll note was more food than my happy meal.

After everyone else finished- I had been done with my dining experience in like five minutes- we ordered cheesecake. At $7 a slice. I was expecting a candy-bar sized sliver of screw-you, but we actually got some decent-sized slices. Of course, at that price-to-food ratio, a whole cheesecake would have cost Donald Trump prices. My wife and oldest again lamented how full they were. I of course didn’t have that problem, since the mouthful of cheeseburger I got was rolling around in my stomach all alone.

End result: $93.00 for our family of four, which I calculated was the same as almost three trips to Five Guys.

Will I return? Not very likely. Unless I have a bag of carry out from a real restaurant with me. Like sneaking food into the movie theater.

Cheesecake Factory: Not Dad friendly.

If you’re still taking your cues from the pop-culture icons of “Mad Men” and “Hawaii Five-0,” you might want to reset your style dial to 2011. Jessica Pastor, a top Hollywood men’s fashion consultant who works with Kevin Connolly of “Entourage” — among other celebs — would like to loop you into an old-is-new style: trendy shirt-and-tie combinations.

The Tie
These days, there’s less rigidity to the button-down look, giving you more options and freedom of expression — without fear of breaking unwritten codes. For instance, Ryan Gosling sports skinny ties, while Mark Wahlberg’s signature is ’70s-style wide ties.

“Right now, we’re seeing thinner ties, and it’s been like that for the last three years,” says Pastor. “But leading fashion companies like Zegna, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani are starting to revisit thicker ties.”

Deciding on width depends on the look you’re trying to achieve or the statement you want to make. “When you wear a thinner tie, it feels a bit more youthful,” says Pastor. “Carrying off a thicker tie adds a bit of sophistication and old-school style.”

She also suggests taking your individual build into account. “If you’re broader in the shoulders, or on the shorter side, a thick tie isn’t going to do you any favors,” she says. “Conversely, if you’re built like a bear, a skinny tie will just look disproportionately silly.” Face it, fellas: Length matters, so be sure to wear the tie so the bottom of the wide front hits just above your belt buckle.

“If you’re short, there’s nothing wrong with buying in the teen section, as you can find better fits and better prices,” Pastor advises. “If you’re tall, try one on by Armani, Zegna or Hugo Boss.”

The Shirt
When it comes to shirts, a good fit is critical. “The standard shirt has a 32-inch arm length, but if you ask, you can get longer ones,” Pastor says.

Made-to-measure is a great way to go because you get a perfect fit every time. Here, the expectation is for the shirt to fit you, not the other way around. Kevin Connelly is fan of Anton Custom Shirts ($165), but we also like Roger Charles ($180) and Ascot Chang ($150).

“It’s all about proportion,” says Pastor. “In addition to your own build, you want to balance the lapel width, the width of tie along with the collar length. Tom Ford and Armani both make longer shirt collars to accommodate their wider ties.”

The Match
Here’s where you can get creative: With basics out of the way, the next thing to focus on is solids vs. patterns. Those with more classic tastes might opt for both a solid shirt and tie. This combo produces a strong, traditional, can’t-miss look. We’re not talking about the Ninja-looking novelty black shirt, black tie and black suit that prehistoric Regis Philbin rocked five years ago. We prefer the contrast of a dark tie against a lighter background — or vice versa.

But if you’re the type to go against the grain, you might want to sample the bold, Brit-inspired patterned tie and patterned shirt combo. “A lot of guys are afraid of patterned ties, but you can feel confident with a patterned number from Etro or Paul Smith tie,” says Pastor. “However, if you want to play it safe, wear it with a solid shirt.”

If you really want to push the individuality meter, try turning heads with tie jewelry. While Americans may think this looks more Dracula than Details, Europeans have successfully embraced it for years. “Tie clips, bars and pins smarten up any outfit,” says Pastor. “The rule of thumb is to make sure you’ve got an appropriate jacket to pull the look together.”

If you’re a more downtown dude, Pastor urges you to not be afraid to add a casual touch with a shirt and tie combined with khakis, jeans or even sneakers.

Michael Rovner has written for Vogue, Esquire, and Details. He has been on staff at WWD, Star Magazine and Life & Style. He has also covered fashion and style for the New York Post and The New York Times magazine.

Photo credit: needoptic

Jim, a musician and teacher by trade, bought a modest house on a main road in Aurora, Ohio a few years back, fixed it up and turned it into a gorgeous wine bar. It’s sophisticated, but with a country atmosphere that suits Jim, an outdoorsman and fisherman type.

I’ve been to James Place a few times, once to chat and once to sit on the back patio and sing along with Jim as he played his guitar. Lydia and I have been there, as well – it’s the kind of place a woman feels comfortable, being about as far from a punch-palace dive bar as you can get, but without pretence.

Last December, Jim thrust a bottle of wine in my hand as I was leaving. “To celebrate when your son is born,” he said. “I know you love Bordeaux.”

It was a 2005 Chateau Lacombe Bordeaux. About a week after Finn was born, when I regained some equilibrium from experiencing the greatest day of my life, Lydia and I opened it.

For my tasting notes I hastily wrote, “opens with a hint of chocolate; moves to mineral, earthy, tangerine, leather.” Then I just enjoyed the glass and the hell with tasting notes. My amazing son was sleeping peacefully, Lydia was sharing a taste of the Bordeaux with me (we bottle feed), and all was right with the world.

That Jim had given us a 2005 only added to the visceral pleasure that is drinking a Bordeaux: 2005 is, according to the book, “The Wines of France,” by Jacqueline Friedrich, a Bordeaux vintage that’s “superb across the board – the vintage of a generation.”

Indeed, this Chateau Lacombe, which is a moderately priced bottle (yet more than the under $10 bargains I regularly search for; see below), could not have been better for celebrating two generations of Lax men. (That said, the 1952 – my birth year – Bordeaux is considered “old and rare.” Ouch.)

Bordeaux, a vast area of nearly 250,000 acres is located in Southwest France. It’s been home to some of the finest vineyards in the world. It’s an often-imitated wine, but I’ve not found anything quite like it from anywhere else. Though I enjoy white Bordeaux, it’s the reds that have an unmistakable allure. Bordeaux producers commonly combine Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes, sometimes adding some Petit Verdot grapes for spicy measure.

If you’re new to French wines, I suggest beginning with Bordeaux. You can be assured of a noble tradition and winemaking skill; French wines have been drunk for at least 2,500 years. Experience and age in wine, and sometimes in life, have their place.